Our Man in Hanoi

Our Man in Hanoi - revamped and returning

Just a quick note, in case anyone still checks these pages or are subscribed via RSS.

Since leaving Vietnam I've spent time in Nicaragua, Newcastle and, more recently, Cameroon.

I'm now planning my return to Hanoi (yes I missed it too much).

The newly revamped Wordpress blog can be seen at www.ourmaninhanoi.com and from late September '09 I'll be back in Hanoi documenting my adventures.

Apologies to anyone given the run-around by my assorted blog debris (first Blogger, then Typead and now Wordpress).  I'm intending to start removing that once everything is in place at the new address.

this is the end

WE DID IT.

So the new KOTO is open.  Officially.

The Australian Ambassador did his duty and later, less formally, the KOTO graduates opened it too with a roof top cutting of the cake.

Like I said before, when we first moved in, it didn’t quite feel like home. But, at the opening, with it so full of people, it felt so vibrant and the smiles were everywhere. We’re growing into it.

Since my last visit to the restaurant there were so many new details that I hadn’t seen before.  Each one seemed to strike a memory. In the formal dining area where they’ve started a gallery of past graduates.  Among them is the wonderful Miss Hanh, now a major star at Le Pub and who looks after me so well on my frequent visits.

Alongside her was Miss Thu – with that open, warm, Vietnamese smile of hers.  Last year we both appeared in a BBC news clip.

On the walls, alongside 1000 bricks were posters I had designed plus souvenirs from the bike ride.

Around me, all the kids were wearing the t-shirts created by my talented mate back in Newcastle.

Meanwhile among the guests were so many old friends.  It was also, incredibly gratifying to see Mr Huy, my old marketing colleague playing a role in the unveiling. He was one of the original nine KOTO trainees.  His dedication to KOTO goes way beyond us here today, gone tomorrow, foreigners.

Also there was Guyette who my mother and father sponsored through her training.

As ever it was good to see all the KOTO staff.  Volunteer Clare (pictured with me and KOTO kids below) and Vietnamese colleague Tham, are the real stars of the new KOTO.  They lived it for well over two years. 

Every coat of paint, every piece of furniture, every electrical socket, every tile, every light fitting – they made it all happen.  Two people who did an incredible, and an incredibly stressful, job.

The new KOTO is quite a place.  We’re so close now to getting KOTO right and when it’s perfect then replication is next. There will be so many hundreds more young people that KOTO can help.

It has to succeed.  It will succeed.

It has been a pleasure to be in Vietnam.  It is a truly wonderful place.  In all honesty I find it had to be objective about this country.  I am too much in its grasp. 

Being part of  Hanoi felt so invigorating.  What did I do to deserve something this good?  How did I get so lucky?.  It felt most strong in those early days – flying around Hanoi on the back of a motorbike with the biggest grin on my face.

This was me.  Doing this.  Living this life.  Who would have thought it?

There is also one more happy slice of my life that has been conspicuous by its absence in this blog.  I have met someone.  Someone special.  An environmental volunteer.  She will be with me on my next adventure. 

She is yet another example of how my life has gone so right here.  I will shut up now because otherwise she will kill me, but life is good. Very good.

So, where are we going?

In March I fly out to Nicaragua.  There, by a lake, in a beautiful city called Granada, is a street kid cooking school called Café Chavalos.

Guess what?  They need a new restaurant.

It starts again. What could be more perfect?  I'll see you at Our Man in Granada.

* The rest of the KOTO opening party pics here plus one more youtube movie here.

interim post

I've written before, while we dreamed of the new KOTO restaurant, that I fantasised about the opening night.

When everything was going horrifically wrong it was the thought that kept me going.

Specifically it was about putting on the event, watching as everyone cooed over the new place and then, once they had gone, enjoying a beer with the wonderful people who had made it possible. We'd all be wearing goofy smug smiles and someone would voice what we were thinking.  They'd say: "We ****ing did it!"

Well that is only a couple of weeks away.  The official opening is coming soon. In the meantime, I am back in Hanoi after a month long break in the UK (pics).  I then returned via Bangkok - touching down on New Year's Eve and sleeping through both the new year celebrations and, I found out later, bombs going off.

My jetlag also meant I got up obscenely early the next morning (pics).

Then, late on January 3rd I returned "home" to Hanoi.

You may recall that when I left, the new KOTO restaurant wasn't quite open. Well it is now and I couldn't wait.  I was there for breakfast the very next day and it's looking incredible.

It's in the middle of what they call, in the industry, a soft opening.  In other words they are ironing out problems and getting feedback.  Once everyone is content, they'll extend the opening and have that fabled opening do. 

Sure, there are some little things that need sorting and in a strange way, it's yet to really feel like home.  But it does look beautiful.  I particularly like the new Temple Bar area.

So, one more post to go. I've spent Christmas vaguely mulling over any conclusions I can take from all of this.

In the meantime I am meeting an old KOTO colleague for lunch today - seeing as I don't actually work there any more she can tell me the plans for the opening hours. However, in the meantime, it is open for breakfast and lunch (and evenings at weekends).  Make sure you get down there if you're in town.

All the new KOTO pics here.

the saddest, proudest moment ever

I'm now no longer a KOTO employee.

Yesterday was the last day and with it came the goodbye speeches, the presents, the flowers, the food and the drinks.

And, of course, the tears.

I had known for a long time that leaving would be a huge wrench.  I had known that I would be expected to make a speech.  I also knew that every time I went through that speech in my head I welled up to a point where I just had to forget about it.

I have watched others trying to do it.  It's never pretty.

So the moment came.  Our new CEO said some extraordinarily kind things about me and it was my turn to speak.  Oanh, my colleague and great friend over the past 27 months was translating.

I started off okay.  I told the 100 trainees and staff present how proud I had been of KOTO and how sad I was to leave. I told them that we are the first KOTO and later, when there are KOTOs across the world, we can be so proud of that. Then Oanh broke.

She was suddenly in floods or tears and couldn't go on.  Miss Nga took over and I admitted quietly to her that I didn't know if I could finish.  Between us Nga and I sobbed a much shortened version of what I had wanted to say. 

It must have been quite a sight for the trainees.

I spent the next hour hugging sobbing kids with my t-shirt slowly getting wetter.  Miss Ly from class eight broke my heart. I'm not a very group hug kind of bloke but I must have had my arms around seven or eight of them at a time. 

It's not easy for me to write this.  Even now, as I type the tears are flowing again. I don't know why it makes me like this. I'm ready to go and have chosen to go.  I guess it's just an over flowing of emotions.  So much is coming together.  Twenty seven months of living with these amazing people and sharing so much.  And me being so inspired and so humbled by them.

Eventually I tore myself away and started to move downstairs where staff were waiting to go out to dinner.  My regular xe om driver crossed the street with his motorbike and one last time we set off. 

There we were, a dozen or so staff on motorbikes, and all around trainees pedaling furiously on their pushbikes, trying to keep up.  I waved them goodbye as we sped along Thuy Khue Street.  That cinematic thing again.  Just when did my life turn into a movie?  So many priceless moments that I have been so lucky to enjoy.

Later at the restaurant my phone rang.  Thu from Class Seven rang from the Softel Plaza. I have no idea how he got my number.  He was working and hadn't be able to say goodbye but he wanted to say good luck.  Then Chien from Class Six called.  Then Miss Lung, now working in the Guoman.

More speeches, flowers and a present that floored me.  For over two years I have been flogging bricks to raise money for KOTO's new home.  Now KOTO has bought me one. 

It will stay forever in the new restaurant.  Just perfect.

The evening went on in happy fashion.  Later, more zig zagging on motorbikes to a bar and a few drinks.

Today I woke up with nowhere to go.  I had a strange long breakfast and did some Christmas shopping.  Then I sneaked into KOTO to clear my desk.  Two more presents from the trainees broke my heart all over again.  The first from class ten and the second from Miss Lung with a note.

I am so proud of what we have achieved at KOTO.  So proud just to be a part of it.  So proud that the new KOTO is going happen. And if you'll forgive me the indulgence, I'm proud I stuck it out.  Not just the two years but the extra time to see this through. 

It is easily the single best thing I have ever done with my life.

My future has many more adventures ahead but I will see and experience nothing like this ever again.  I am the luckiest guy in the world to do this.

Finally, like I said, I am no longer a KOTO employee.  But, like 200 kids who have gone through the KOTO program before me, I will always be KOTO family. That's just one more thing to be proud of.

Thank you everybody at KOTO.  Your future promises to be very bright.

closing chapters

Like I said before it's starting to feel more and more like the end of the film.

The old KOTO at 61 Van Mieu is no more.  The new KOTO at 59 Van Mieu, the focus of our work for over the past two years is days away from opening.

Last week I wandered around the old place.  Anything of any value had been removed.  Only the shell remained.  The memories I have of that place are tremendous.  Multiplay that by 200 KOTO trainess, 100 or so more staff and volunteers and thousands of customers.  That place has touched so many lives.

Then I looked around the new KOTO.  It was only just starting to look like a restaurant.  There wasn't that much to see but day by day it's taking shape.  You can already see that the roof terrace is going to be a big favourite.  Overlooking the Temple of Literature I can see it being perfect for private parties.

Elsewhere a bar area gives KOTO a night feel that it's previous version didn't have.  The new place will still have the day time coffee bar friendliness with a little evening sophistication thrown in.

In the end though it wasn't ready for the KOTO bike ride.  That was yesterday.  The date of the after ride party will be scheduled as soon as the restaurant is ready.

As ever I nearly bust a gut over organising the bike ride but it was a great day.  Going back over the photos and uploading them I noticed all the smiles of the entrants.  This year we had double the turn out for last year and somehow it went off like clockwork.  Largely thanks to the excellence of my colleagues particularly the Miss Oanh and Mr Huy who were just awesome once more.

I'm very happy it went to well.  I have to admit I am even happier that next year's event will have someone else organising it.  I am tempted though to come back to Vietnam to take part as a punter.  We'll see.

All the bike ride pics are here.  In addition, bloggers here and here are already writing it up and saying nice things.  Thank you good people.

Next week is already shaping up.  My final two days work should see me doing reports for my employer and for VSO but there's no time.  I've promised a newsletter and some website news updates before I go.  Then over my Christmas break I'll forward my final KOTO reports and suggestions back to Vietnam from the UK.

On Tuesday KOTO is doing me proud with a leaving do - fruit and pop with the trainees then beers and food with the staff.  It's only two more days and yet I still can't imagine saying goodbye.

In the meantime, today was my first day in weeks when I had no responsibility and nothing to worry about.  I've strolled very contendly around a curiously still-warm Hanoi.

My third and final bike ride done.  The new KOTO restaurant all but completed  There's only a couple of pages left in this final chapter.

* Pics are all from the 5th annual KOTO bike ride.

goodbye 61 van mieu

First a couple of very cool links.

There's this rather wonderful film about KOTO which gives you its history from it's start up to present day.

Secondly, while searching for the first film I came across this - a BBC piece from last year.

Rather scarily the first film features voice over from me and the second an interview.

Oh and you'll never guess who we had in our restaurant yesterday.  Look here.

Sadly the KOTO restaurant at 61 Van Mieu has now closed its doors for the last time.  As I write its contents are being moved next door to 59 - our fantastic new home.  Due to open soon.

I remember when I first came to Vietnam I was invited to the home of a former KOTO graduate.  I got to her house to find pictures she had drawn herself, all over her wall, of the KOTO restaurant. She was very proud of it.  It will always be very special to her.  By chance I bumped into her again recently - she came to talk to the current KOTO trainees.  She has continued to progress and now holds a senior position in the restaurant where she works. 

As I have been told many times, and it's corny but true - there was a lot of love in that place.  The trainees benefited from and it was tangible enough for our diners to enjoy too. 

Pre VIP-visit I took some shots of KOTO's last day open to the public as everyone cleaned up for our special guests and got ready for the big change over.  Those last day pics are here.

With a little over a week of my time here I am just starting to get very misty eyed about my departure.  I thought it would pass me by.  The last weeks have been a struggle and I am ready to go.  I thought I would just slip away but apparently plans are being made.  I still can't comprehend saying goodbye to KOTO.

I have been involved with something very special here.  When they tell you that KOTO changes lives - they don't just mean the trainees.

* Pics are from the last day of KOTO set mentioned earlier.  Top is Mr Duc caught in a moment's contemplation in our dining room.  Below the trainees take it in their stride and the shutters go down for the last time.